The average non surfer (poor sods) usually doesn’t have much of a clue about the lure of the surfing lifestyle- the pure stoke surfers feel whilst riding every single wave.
As the marketing catch cry goes,
“Only A Surfer Knows The Feeling.”
Snowboarders, skateboarders or even wakeboarders can kinda relate, but what they ride (mountains, concrete or still water/boat wake) doesn’t really move like a wave – many of which travel thousands of miles before being ridden to the beach by us guys.
Sure the other crossover athletes do some rad shit, but their routine can and does become inevitably repetitive.
The best thing about the most simplistic artform of surfing is that our medium or canvas – the waves, no two are ever the same.
Surfing is just you and your surfboard riding waves in the ocean – with all of its constantly changing moods.
That’s why surfing remains so interesting and individualistic in a nutshell pretty much.
It’s also why we travel!
When you’re a grom your stoked to explore whats around the next headland from your local beach in a summer Nor easter.
You seek the next challenge or a different type of wave.
As you get older and more proficient at the art of wave riding you inevitably feel the urge to go and test yourself up or down the coast, and eventually in the reefbreaks in The Maldives, Mentawai and eventually Hawaii etc.