“When I was five years old, my mother always told me that happiness was the key to life. When I went to school, they asked me what I wanted to be when I grew up. I wrote down ‘happy’. They told me I didn’t understand the assignment, and I told them they didn’t understand life.” John Lennon.

You know, I was thinking about why i surf again just the other day.

What is it about surfing?

Why is it so addictive, and why am i so hooked?

Why?

Cause it’s FUN!

Hey there’s a million reasons if you want to delve deep. I’m sure you’re up with all the marketing cliches:

 
“Only a surfer knows the feeling,”
“Mystique, ”
“Unique tribal camaraderie,”
“The physical fitness and skill aspect, ”
“The cosmic notion that you’re riding a natural force – a wave that has travelled x miles and your riding it just before it’s a spent force onshore.”

For me though, the best thing about the surfing lifestyle is the freedom and unpredictability that rules.

The myths, the stories, the post surf beers.

It’s the fun factor.

The notion that you are F.U.N – following under nobody.

You can surf whenever and wherever you want… on whatever equipment you dig and you can rest assured that no two waves are ever exactly the same…. ever….. it’s so fun. Be happy, the end.

 

Written by:
Ben Horvath

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